You Can't Persuade Him That Black is White

I'll get that translated, originally uploaded by crau1971.

The irony of this is only now becoming clear.

I took this picture the first night I was in Galway, wandering around, looking at shopfronts and pubs and people, and I loved this sign. As the original caption for the photo reads, "I'll get this translated." It's a pun, and a nice one, where Guinness is involved. It's the "can't persuade him" part where the irony comes in for me.

Later in the trip, our group went out to this pub with Donal, and we had a lovely time. One afternoon after class, I was wanting a quick drink before running off to dinner and work on my paper, so I stopped in to this pub, McSwiggans, to have one. While at the pub, I was invited to join a group of three local guys, around my age, who noticed I was writing in a journal at the bar. I made a nice connection with one of them, Andrew. He and I spoke the same language--obsessive knowledge of music and bands--and we talked for a good portion of that afternoon. He drew me a picture in my journal and left me a note as well. "Keep writing, keep doing what you do. Welcome to Galway, Andrew". He asked me to join them at another pub in Eyre Square, but since I already had plans, I said, "I'd love to come, but I already promised my friends I'd meet them, so I have to say no." He hugged me, I said goodbye to everyone else, and we went on our merry ways.

Later on, looking at the picture and the note again, I realized his email was at the bottom of the note, but I couldn't read part of it.

Out with my friends the next night, I bumped into one of the other guys from the bar, and asked him to "translate" what I couldn't read. He did, and I emailed him.

No response.

I couldn't persuade him, I guess. ;)

However, it's really not a tragedy. I was only in Galway for another week and a half at that point, and had a pretty full schedule to boot. But, despite the missed connection, this was one of my favorite afternoons in Galway. Away from the group, being totally and completely me, talking music and lightly flirting with a decent looking chap who was also talking music and lightly flirting. It was a great moment in time.

Thanks, Andrew. :)

Making Something "Yours"

Best snacks here, originally uploaded by crau1971.

This is the side wall to Ward's Corner Store and Sandwich Shop, which was on University Road, right in between NUI-G's main gate and the Cathedral of Our Lady Assumed Into Heaven. I discovered this lovely little spot my first day of classes, and I think I went there for lunch almost every day we were on campus. The staff were super friendly, the food was delicious, they had these great €2.99 sandwiches on baguettes that were the perfect cheap lunch. Plus, they sold candy, snacks, water, other little staples like that, and you could sit outside on their patio when the weather was good, eating and watching other Galwegians come in for their favorite sandwich.

I found myself missing Ward's terribly yesterday, when I couldn't figure out what I wanted for lunch, and realized I was craving the chicken tikka with rocket leaves sandwich.

One of many little things I loved about Galway.

Squint Your Eyes And Look Closer

My life is my adventure. When I remain open to the fact that it is an adventure, I remain open to beautiful, wonderful things.

Not every adventure involves swinging from rafters or death-defying escapades. Sometimes the adventure is simply in the newness of the experience.

I am such a creature of my emotions, and this is ok. I don’t need to control them in all cases. In fact, sometimes letting what I’m feeling flow uninhibited brings great people into my life.

People like me for who I am, full of contradictions and attitudes and aptitudes that belie my professional bio. People who haven’t sung the changes of my life as the decades have come by think I’m pretty damn cool, and nothing like they thought.

I like me for who I am, full of contradictions and attitudes and aptitudes that belie my professional bio... ;)

I still miss you.

There are angels in my life, and they traveled with me, and helped me remind myself during every rainstorm that I cannot let the fact that it is raining deter me from doing something I want to do. This is both a literal and figurative revelation.

I’m not ready for a relationship. Possibly not willing. I would sit and listen to colleagues talk about boyfriends they needed to check in with daily, or define their experiences in terms of what the partner thought, and I realized I liked this reality of being not tethered to someone. I liked that my life was my own, and that the only person defining it is me. I’m not a pretty bird in a cage; I need room to fly. I may not need to fly far all the time, but I need to fly. Until I meet someone that understands that, I’m staying single. I’ve already deleted one dating profile; the second one goes today.

My life is not easy, and my job is not easy, but my job is not my life. Having said that, I love both of those and wouldn’t wish them any different.

Everyone I know challenges me in someway that I need to be challenged, and I missed each and every one of you while I was gone, and I am so glad to be back.



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Today marks year six of this blog. She almost didn’t make it to this point. I left for Ireland spent and tired and needing a perspective reset. Having to present yourself to total strangers and spend three and a half weeks with yourself will certainly accomplish that reset. I’ve had two people in the last 24 hours, people I consider adventurous in spirit and in life, tell me they were jealous of my adventure, and that spoke volumes to me.

So I think the chronicle will stay, for a while longer. There are more stories in me to tell.Slainte...

For the entire set of Ireland pictures, go here.

17th Century Emoticon

17th century emoticon, originally uploaded by crau1971.

Found this on a slab on the floor of a ruined Cistercian monastery in The Burren.

Horrible, rainy, cold day, the worst weather yet. However, this little guy reminded me, quite clearly, to say "Feck it, I'm in Ireland." The bus to the airport in Dublin picks us up at 8:00 am on Saturday. Only a few more days to soak in it all.

So, smile, Courtney; you're in Ireland. And it's changed your whole perspective.

We Have Lingered in the Chambers of the Sea...

My friend Corey posted on Facebook that there were no words to describe the beauty of Inishbofin Island. And whereas I understand the sentiment that caused her to write that, I think I can come up with a few...

Crashing...



Delicate...



Dangerous... (particularly when hiking down INTO that cave)



Rugged...



Hallowed...





Breathtaking...



For more photos from Inishbofin, and other Ireland highlights, go here.

I See Seven Towers, But I Only See One Way Out

I had this song running through my head all day yesterday, as I took a whirlwind tour of Dublin and a few of its major attractions. Even from the Guinness Storehouse's Gravity Bar, with its nearly 360° view of the city, and a corresponding map pointing out sites of interest and Joyce quotes floating in the air, Bono's "Seven Towers" likely would not have been memorialized in such a positive, touristy spot. Whether they even exist anymore remains a mystery to me.

What I did see of Dublin reminded me of a baby New York City, particularly in comparison to where I live and where I've been living here in Ireland. Dublin is grittier, busier, a little more demanding. I'm sure many American tourists love Dublin, and the sites I saw were wonderful. But, my relationship with NYC is fine in small doses, and I immediately had that reaction to Dublin. I mean, IMMEDIATELY. Sometimes, you just get a sense about a city. San Francisco was like that for me; I felt instantly at home there. Los Angeles made me anxious. NYC, I have to really structure our interactions (not unlike some friends I have either). Galway, once I got over my initial homesickness, is a comfortable place for me. The pace is busy, but not frenetic. There are great activities to do, bands to see, culture to immerse yourself in simply by walking down Shop Street or over to Monroe's. I was surprised at how much I wanted to get back to Galway after a mere 24 hours in Dublin.

And, I had fun in Dublin, despite the TORRENTIAL rain that plagued us Saturday morning. Friday night, my friend Kathleen picked me up at the train station, drove us through the city to her lovely apartment. We had cheese and crackers and wine, then headed out to meet both some of her friends, and two of mine from the program who were also in Dublin. The groups merged easily, and we had drinks at the Palace Bar, in the infamous Temple Bar area of Dublin. We moved onto Mexican food, where we closed the joint, had margaritas and shots, then moved on AGAIN to a nightclub, where one of Kathleen's other friends was holding court. Up by 9:00 am, and onto The Book of Kells at Trinity College, a quick jaunt down Grafton Street, lunch at a crepe place, and the Guinness Storehouse, which, even if you're a Bud drinker, you need to see this museum. Really, really well done, and a free pint at the end, in a glass-walled bar overlooking Dublin. Kathleen was then participating in an ocean swim race, so she and I drove over to Dun Laoghaire (Done Leary, to pronounce), where the skies had finally cleared, and I walked along the seaside with Kathleen's friend Niabh in warm temperatures and bright sunshine. A quick bite to eat, and I was back on the train. Glad to have met some great people, glad to have seen what I did, but also, glad to be going back to Galway, where I definitely feel more at home.

But U2 haunted me all day. I suppose it's only normal if you're touring Dublin. It is their home, after all.

I am no mermaid...

I am no mermaid..., originally uploaded by crau1971.

On a wall in Clonfert Abbey, ostensibly to remind the worshippers of the evils of woman and her wiley ways.

However, I think she's beautiful.

One paper to finish and print TODAY, then fun. Lots of it. Theater, Dublin, Galway Arts Festival, Saw Doctors, other local amusements.

But, until tomorrow, nerd time.

Where Once We Watched The Small Free Birds Fly

So, when I emerged from the ladie's room in Taafe's last night, and the band in the corner broke into this song, my head damn near exploded. A little later, "Dirty Old Town". But, Fields of Athenry... fabulous. Band consisted of banjo, guitar, accordion and bodrhan.

Good times. :)

Fields of Athenry - Dropkick Murphys

MP3 File

Wild At Heart

Ireland is truly a wild country, still. Its western edge is raw and dangerous and full of ancient, pre-medieval ruins, and likely ghosts. For example, on Omey Island, where we hiked to today, the rabbits are digging up human remains from that period. Archaeologists are beside themselves with glee.


To get to Omey, you have to hike across a tidal plain, and only at low tide. Your time on Omey, unless you really feel like swimming, or have a boat waiting, is limited to how long the tide will give you. As Dr. Gibbons told us as we walked across, time and tides wait for no man. So our pace on the island was grueling, but fascinating.



As we soon learned, we were quick, but not quick enough to avoid getting wet.



Still, to have experienced walking that island and seeing the rough coastline, and the waves, and the ruins, and the human bones in the sand, was completely worth the wet feet and sand between my toes. But, you all know how I love sand between my toes.

Kylemore Abbey, although impressive, paled in comparison to the tidal island and the first hand view we had of it. Still, many beautiful things to see there as well.



But, I'll admit; it was an emotional minefield for me at the Abbey, in fact, driving through most of that landscape. Back when I was 19, I worked with a little girl named Connemara. Multiple disabilities, including deaf/blind, and she died when she was 6. She was heavy on my heart as I walked the land that gave her such a beautiful name. I don't think it was coincidence that our group saw two rainbows within 20 minutes of entering the county.

Other thoughts on Connemara: the weather changed today quite literally every ten minutes. Come prepared. I also ate what may have been the best scones I've ever had in my life. American scones are shite.



Tired and thoughtful today. I should write some of my papers, but I may finish Joyce instead. Also course related, though, so I don't feel too badly.

Du´n Aonghasa

Cliffs at Dun Aoghnas, originally uploaded by crau1971.

500 foot drop to the Atlantic. Ancient Celtic fort on Inis Mor, one of the Aran Islands. Beautiful, wild place.

Feeling a little more acclimated, although I'm still having trouble falling asleep. Once I'm asleep, it's fine; I go straight through until morning. Perhaps it's the extra two hours of daylight that happens in this country; perhaps it's lingering anxiety, possibly it's both. The days are certainly busier now; today, we saw a school in Galway, Scoil Chaitri´ona Renmore, a senior level primary school. Essentially, grades three through six. Primary schools are run by local Boards of Management, under a patron, and that is still largely religious institutions; this one we visited can best be described as a public Catholic school. They operate under a Catholic ethos, and teach religion every day. Parents of non-Catholic students can opt their children out of the class, BUT, the school does not provide work for them; they have to bring their own things to do during that period. I'm still processing the amazing differences in special education services. Trying to narrow my focus for the paper that's due a week from Thursday, and I'm stumped.

Tomorrow is a long day of lectures and meeting our Irish teacher counterparts. Wednesday is a tour of North West Connemara, so there will be more pictures then.

Off to try and make myself tired... :)

First REAL Night In Galway

Table again, originally uploaded by crau1971.

Thursday night doesn't count, still too jet lagged to really appreciate it. So, last night, several of us set up camp in a bar called The Quays. Good mix of locals and tourists, old, dark, outside tables, live band later in the night, lots of football hooligans inside watching the second game yesterday. No idea, just heard lots of shouting, and one of our party, Zack, kept running in to check the score.

Later that evening we were joined by several lads from the North on a stag weekend, and were entertained for several hours. Speaking of hours, there is so much more daylight here in Galway; it stays light in the evenings until close to 10:30. This picture was possibly taken around 9:30.

Fun evening, off to a walking tour of the city in a bit. So, more pictures to come.

Travel Freak-outs And Other Observations

Very Hogwarts, originally uploaded by crau1971.

First of all, Galway is beautiful. Very friendly city. Not necessarily easy to navigate, but I'm getting the hang of it. We've done a lot of walking since our arrival, and between that, and the jet lag, and the "new-ness" of it all, Courtney had her first freak out last night and this morning.

I was always that extra homesick kid; I never did well at sleepovers, and always ended up going home early. I've never quite been able to place why it is this way, but it is. So of course, yesterday, I'm deliriously tired when I arrive, and the bathroom wasn't really clean, and the shower was cold, and I had no snacks or familiar things, and I could not fall asleep for love or money. Weeping, anxious, the whole drill. Yes, I know. I'm nuts.

This morning, the shower would not heat up again. Now, maintenance had shown me how to "boost" the hot water, but that trick wasn't working. At least, it wasn't working immediately. But the water had gone at least from bracing cold to tepid, so, I stood in the tepid shower and cried again, just to get it all out so I could move beyond it and enjoy the trip. So, I went across the street to Dunne's and bought myself two real bath sheets. If I'm going to have to deal with tepid showers, I should at least have a good towel to wrap in after I'm done, right?

And, we're really going to be quite busy. I should read the rest of the packet our lecturer gave us this afternoon because it will inform one of my papers. I need to figure out where to print on campus as well. Tonight, some girls and I are hitting the pubs. Tomorrow, a walking tour of the city, probably more pubs. Sunday, Salthill. I think. Or, if someone has a different idea, I'm open to that, too.

Additionally, our course director is adding lunch lessons in Irish (woo hoo), and knitting. Irish Aran island sweater knitting. Yes, I've signed up for both of them.